A Roman vacation off the beaten path

I moved to Rome seven years ago, from New York City with my husband (who is Roman) and our son. Finding authentic restaurants or bars in Rome can be a challenge if you follow the usual guidebooks.

Contrary to what many people suggest, I would not recommend stopping in any major square such as Piazza Navona, Campo De’ Fiori, Pantheon, Fontana di Trevi or the neighborhood Trastevere. The food and drinks are overpriced and they lack both in quantity and quality. The service is quick and impersonal. These places are beautiful and deserve to be seen, but don’t get taken advantage of. The city has just decreased the number of food licenses they issue in Trastevere, especially fast food venues that have plagued the neighborhood in recent years.

If you wish to spend a delightful evening dining or drinking outside of mainstream tourism visit Garbatella or Pigneto.

Garbatella, is a beautiful residential neighborhood with turn of the century houses with luscious gardens and tree-lined streets. At night it’s a favorite dining spot among Romans. Families line up on the sidewalks waiting for a table, but well worth the experience. The prices are a great value considering the portions are enormous.

Pigneto is best described as a small village, located near Porta Maggiore and not far from Termini train station. Its Rome’s best kept secret, not yet reviewed in travel books and is still discovered by word of mouth, despite it’s rich history. Many important and historical film directors have adored Pigneto. It has been the location of films such as Roberto Rossellini’s, Roma Città Aperta (1945) and Pier Paolo Pasolini’s, Accattone (1961).
The neighborhood was once very poor and partially bombed during WWII. It endured many years of hardships and decay. During the past several years, young artists, designers and architects who have found beautiful and affordable spaces have repopulated it as an alternative to Rome’s rising real estate market.

By day, Pigneto seems a sleepy village. Locals come out for the morning farmer’s market to buy fresh produce, eggs, and honey. You’ll find people sitting at one of the cafe’s sipping a cappuccino and reading the morning paper. On the last Sunday of every month Pigneto has an outdoor vintage market that stays open all day. You will find select vintage clothing, furniture and household items. Some designers sell their clothes made by using recycled materials. This is the only market of its kind in Rome. At night the neighborhood comes alive. The pedestrian area fills with outdoor tables for the bars and restaurants.

No matter where you stop in Garbatella or Pigneto, you’ll be sure to feel a part of something special.

~ by Aimee on April 19, 2009.